Saturday, February 11, 2012

Day 10 - Sea lions and Isla San Francisco

This was the second attempt to leave the island of Espiritu Santo for San Evaristo, a fishing village across the channel on Baja’s mainland, in search of food and water. Leaving behind the sleeping disco boats and two other neighbors on sailing vessels, Gia and Prole, we maneuvered a 'drive-by' so Mark (on the Prole) could toss us a bag of hazelnuts from their farm. So motoring we go, out the cove and praying for wind because it is too far for motoring the entire way.

Skipping breakfast, we left early this time looking for wind, yet again, not a puff of air greeted us in the channel. The tip of Ilsa Espiritu Santo can been seen off the starboard bow and the rocks there, called Isla Islotes, are a popular eco-tourism spot for viewing sea lions. We tack in that direction for a nice detour and then continue north. Four hours later (most of the time spent motoring) and still not a hint of wind we opt to anchor at Isla San Francisco, 8 miles south and across the channel from our shopping destination.


‘The Hook’ on Isla San Francisco is a beautiful crescent shaped beach aptly named because of its appearance when seen from above. This ridge top view is a short hike over a dune berm through a dry lagoon studded with trees which grow horizontally.

From a dizzying vantage point, a sweeping view of the back side of the Isla San Francisco, another large cove, and in the distance - Isla Espiritu Santo. The trail is quiet except for a flitting chirp and the occasionally cry of a gull. Scanning the desert scrub, I get a glimpse of a small bird and the source of the chirp. It is a yellow-headed something – I left my bird book at home.

Sunning and writing on this beautiful mile-long beach, I am the only human here and my attention is caught by the sounds I don’t hear and those that I do: a gull, the slurp of a wavelet on pebbles, the buzz of a gnat near my ear. That is all. No cars, planes, motorcycles, people, telephones, or trucks. There isn’t another person on the mile long white sand beach except me with only a few boats placidly resting in the anchorage...

Until the concert starts. After the peaceful beach experience here, the irony continues in our current anchorage. Some nice folks in a big boat next door dingy'd over to let us know they would be showing an Eagles concert for a few other yachtistas. No disco? No problem! It's dinner time and I think this is the best seat in the cove!

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