This morning dawned chilly with clouds, crushing yesterday's enthusiasm for hiking the El Rincon trail, so I venture on deck with my morning cup of hot, vanilla chai tea. While contemplating my last few days at sea, a panga boat steered by two local fishermen tentatively approached. They inquired about cigarettes but I was really hoping they stopped by to sell fish. After exchanging broken pleasantries sprinkled with smiles (some with teeth, some not) the two fishermen motored away on their quest.
|Fishing casitas, Ensenada la Partida|
A short while later, from below deck, I heard the sound of their motor once again. They had returned this time looking for AA batteries. During this "conversation" I learned these fishermen were part of a small group who live in the casitas (shacks) on the isthmus, three weeks out of each month, before returning La Paz to visit family - a foraging lifestyle and a link to our past. First hand exchanges like these paint a picture of a world unknown to me.
I feel we could have talked for much longer but breakfast was ready. Captain Mike made a great batch of hash browns, extra crispy, with eggs over-easy. And the fishermen must wait for another day before the ocean delivers their meal.
|SV Zulu - pirate style|
~ ~ ~
With the wind at our back, leaving Ensenada la Partida marked the only day we've been able to sail directly, without motor assist. Anchor up, spin the wheel, furl the jib and the Compass Rose eases out to sea. I feel like a Pirate right now, especially after watching Zulu embark just after sunrise.
So today we sail wing-on-wing, wind at our back, with the main sail starboard and the staysail port. It was more work that I imagined. I would take the helm and aim her on course, but during the channel pass between Isla Espiritu Santo and La Paz, the winds would swirl, change direction for a moment and swing the booms before changing yet again. Sailing wing-on-wing requires constant monitoring particularly with today's swell, pitching the boom at any moment.
Over two weeks at sea, I was ready for a new restaurant experience and there were two on the beach to choose from...