I enjoyed a blissfully sound sleep – no pitching, no rolling and no disco boats in this quiet fishing village. If only I could sling my bed at home into a giant hammock, maybe that would re-create the floating motion of the Compass Rose on calm water - a subtle, gentle movement better than any sleep aid.
Today, the plan was to reach the village of Los Burros on Baja's mainland, approximately 12 miles to the north of San Evaristo as the crow flies, spend the night in the small anchorage, then return to San Evaristo to hopefully find the larger market open for business.
After a hearty breakfast of home-made huevos rancheros - a pleasant change from the recent rations of oatmeal - we headed north. Just north of Punta San Evaristo is another cove, an oasis in the desert
lined with date palms and a small salt mining operation. Between San Evaristo and Nopolo (a fishing village 5 miles north which is only accessible by boat) I played the well known explorer game called 'name that rock'. As we passed promontory rocks and features not mentioned in the guidebooks I chose new names like, Gorilla Rock, Scallop Rock, Badger Point,
Cathedral Rock and Dinosaur Ridge (the last one, Capt. Mike’s contribution).
|Nopolo Village (L) and Dinosaur Ridge (R)|
It was one of the better sailing days so I practiced tacking, sheeted the main, moved the drifter during a tack and mastered the bowline knot (three different techniques!) plus a few others.
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Sunsets never fail to fascinate me. The days' end is always rewarded with a beautiful farewell as the sun dips away for the night. Here in 'The Sea' the sky is a vast blue canvas and the setting sun seeps orange and rose into it, perfectly blending the colors behind mysterious, stoic mountain silhouettes. As darkness falls a flat sea mirrors the stars; pin pricks of light surround the boat from all sides as if I am floating in space.