Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Day 13 - A Cruiser's Dinner in San Evaristo

During the night, wind and sea swells picked up that made for less than a sound sleep, however I awoke with visions of dolphins and magic and stars floating in my brain anyway.

After the usual morning routine - cook breakfast, clean up, stow gear, drop dingy, raise and stow dingy motor, remove sail covers, stow gear, equipment check, raise anchor, stow more gear, check lines - it's damn near 10AM! And all I can think about today is FOOD! After being stiffed two days in a row at the San Evaristo "Mini Super Lucerito", I'm feeling lucky today.

Leaving the anchorage at Bahia Cazedero the winds were non-existent, as per usual during daylight hours when one would normally want to sail, until of course, we pull into the sheltered anchorage. Grins. Its a strange and amazing phenomenon which I wouldn't change for a buck. Besides, I am so thrilled at the prospect of groceries and even a hot meal - one that I didn't cook myself - I can hardly contain myself. By mid-afternoon Captain Mike and I were in the dingy whizzing to the shore with my beach bag ready to fill with supplies. And they are still closed... three days now.  But the shack next door was open and she had remodeled while we were away, moving shelves and organizing inventory, which wasn't much at this point. Still, I am happy to purchase more re-fried beans, tuna and salsa. Isn't it amazing what you can cook up with the basics?

During shore leave, new "neighbors" moved into the small bay: Bella Brisa, Mystique, Viking, Prole, Off Tempo, and a few others. Starting to look like a party! Back on the boat, I peeped thru the binoculars at a couple of gringos sitting under a beach palapa and my heart started racing... the one and only restaurant might be open for dinner tonight! A quick dingy ride over and we found Mark & Susan (Prole) enjoying a warm Modelo under the beach palapa. Susan is quick with a smile and was holding court with the owners' small boys, comfortably exchanging hand gestures for words. Mark & Susan are both are experienced cruisers who informed us they had reservations for dinner and we could too, just walk around to the back of the shack and let Selma, the proprietress, know what time.

This is too good to be true, I'm thinking, so I order 4 warm beers and add 6 people for dinner, assuming that our new cruiser acquaintances would also be starved for a night on the "town".

We all arrive on time (how American) in our own water 'taxi's' - some powered by outboard, some by oars - to find a table set for 8 on the clean swept dirt floor. The place is still under construction but it exudes a homelike ambiance, with laundry just outside on the line and the sweet little toddler in his crib waiting for Mamacita to finish cooking. Moments after seating ourselves bowls of pico de gallo, fresh made tortillas, limes, and plates with homemade re-fried beans and rice arrive. Then came a giant bowl of delicately fried fish. That night, none of us knew the language well enough to learn what kind of fish we were being served but I have my suspicions; I'd seen the local fishermen bring in the catch that day and it's not considered 'fish' in the scientific world, but it was absolutely delicious.

Dusk fell during dinner, our bellies were full, the baby behind the bar was getting fussy for mama, and the winds had picked up considerably. We all happily clambered into rocking dinghy's, braving icy wave chop and sea spray, to see what the weather would bring that night.


  1. As many times as I have visited, photographed and written about San Evaristo, I've never captured the place as well as you have done. Thank you Ina.

    Terry & Pattie
    SV Mystique

  2. Thank you! It was a pleasure hanging out with you guys ~ hope we can again some day! Cheers ~


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